How to Upgrade Sync 2 to Sync 3 on 2013-2015 Ford Escapes: A Complete DIY Guide
- Rahrena

- Nov 11
- 6 min read
Upgrading the infotainment system in your 2013, 2014, or 2015 Ford Escape from Sync 2 (MyFord Touch) to Sync 3 is a popular modification that brings modern features like Apple CarPlay, Android Auto, a faster interface, and an 8-inch capacitive touchscreen.
I was told that if you tried Sync 3 that you'd never go back to Sync 2. I didn't believe them until I tried for myself- it's really nice and I'm now in that camp as well.
This upgrade replaces the outdated Sync 2 system with a more responsive Sync 3 setup, including optional factory navigation.
The process involves swapping key components like the APIM (Accessory Protocol Interface Module), screen, USB hub, and some wiring. It's a plug-and-play installation for most pre-programmed kits. You CAN piece together your own kit, but it requires attention to detail to match the correct screens with the APIMs and FORScan programming (which carries some risk if done incorrectly). More details below...
Important Notes Before Starting your Sync 2 to Sync 3 Upgrade:
Most kits require your vehicle's VIN for pre-programming to unlock features (for example, heated seats, backup camera). This is the case whether you buy from a US or Chinese supplier.
If you have an aftermarket backup camera, inform the seller to enable that option so that they can adjust the code to enable that feature on the new Sync 3 APIM. They won't know you have it on your vehicle because it won't show up as a factory option from your VIN.
All kits typically include the same core parts; prices reflect part quality and support.
Factory navigation adds cost but isn't essential—Apple CarPlay/Android Auto can handle maps via your phone. We do like and recommend factory Ford NAV in case you don't have cell signal. We also kind of just like it too. Therefore, we're including it in these price comparisons.
Disconnect the battery before starting to avoid electrical issues.
Tools needed:
7mm socket
13mm socket (for battery),
T9 Torx bit,
Phillips screwdriver,
Plastic Pry Tools (recommended to avoid scratches)
Key Differences: US vs. Overseas Kits
Kits vary by seller:

US-based sellers (e.g., using genuine/refurbished Ford parts) offer better customer support but higher prices.
Examples:
4D Tech (~$1,400 with nav, all new parts) - super expensive in my opinion. Good reviews though.
NaviUpgrade (~$1,000 with nav, all new parts) - Specialty provider, great reputation. Brian is a nice guy.
All Things Sync (~$800 budget-friendly partially refurbished option) - Family operated business. Also has great reviews.
Overseas/Amazon kits (often Chinese-sourced) are cheaper, may not use genuine parts, but installation is the same and it gets the job done. Certainly scratches the itch and not too much out of pocket, relatively speaking of course. (A bit easier to swallow considering our Escapes struggle to hold value after 10 years and high mileage...)
Our kit featured here is selling for ~$670 at the time of this post.
Customer Support via remote desktop (e.g., using included USB-to-OBD2 adapter, FORScan, and TeamViewer).
I can't vouch for the purchasing experience as we got this kit secondhand from another Escape selling the kit after being totaled. Our options lined up perfectly so we didnt' need to toggle any options in the APIM... but the install experience speaks for itself in the video and we haven't had any issues yet. (Thanks Brent for the opportunity to demo this kit on the channel!)

Amazon Sync 3 Upgrade Kit with Sync 3.4 and Ford Navigation, Android Auto/Apple CarPlay
Of the options, to save cash and get the best bang for your buck, I'd recommend these two:

Best bang for your buck between domestic or Chinese kits (from what we researched)
Step-by-Step Installation Guide (Usually a 0.5-1.5hr Job)
The video demonstrates the process on a 2013 Ford Escape (process is identical for 2014-2015 models).
1. Pre-Assembly (On a Soft Surface)
Attach the new Sync 3 APIM to the back of the 8-inch touchscreen using the provided Phillips screws (align holes).
Connect the screen-to-APIM cable (yellow to yellow, blue to blue—push until it clicks).
2. Disconnect Battery
Open the hood and locate the battery in the engine bay in the driver's side towards the back corner.
Use a 13mm socket to loosen and remove the negative terminal (black cable). Set it aside safely.
Make sure you place the stud for the negative black cable in a safe place so you don't lose it.
NOTE: It's common for the relays to click on and off as you're disconnecting/connecting this cable. The time it takes to unthread the stud usually allows for sparks and the 12V system clicks on and off as it's happening but it's not a problem. Just continue until fully removed or fully installed.
3. Remove Dash Panels
Pry off the top dash cover (snaps along sides; firm palm push on the overhang). Disconnect the wire connector underneath (squeeze tab).
Remove two 7mm screws (one on each side of the front bezel).
Pry off the front bezel (lift it up, but remember to disconnect the wire connector for the buttons and knob underneath before removing completely).
4. Remove Side Vents for Access to Fasteners around Sync 2 Assembly
Use a pry tool/screwdriver to depress spring tabs (three per side) and pop out the vent assemblies.
5. Remove Old Sync 2 Screen/APIM
Remove four 7mm screws holding the screen assembly.
Slide the unit forward and lean it forward so you can see the wire harness and USB input on the backside.
Disconnect the main wire harness (push down gray lever, flip tab up, rock out).
Disconnect USB plug (squeeze tab).
The side/mounting brackets with the pins/posts need to be transferred from Sync 2 to the Sync 3 assembly. (remove with T9 Torx bit; align posts and reinstall on Sync 3 assembly).
6. Install New Sync 3 Assembly
Reconnect the main wire harness and USB to the new APIM.
Slide the new screen/APIM into place and secure with four 7mm screws.
Reinstall side vents, making sure the spring tabs are seated properly and that the duct feeds into the inlets of the vent assemblies.
7. Install New USB Hub/ Replace the old USB hub in the center console with the new one (enables CarPlay/Android Auto.
Install the wire adapter to the USB Sync 3 Hub
Install the new bezel adapter to the Sync 3 Hub so you have the wire adapter, USB Hub, and Bezel/faceplate for the Sync 3 setup.
Pop out the Sync 2 RCA/SD Card / USB hub with a pry tool, disconnect the wires from the backside, and install the Sync 3 USB assembly in its place.
8. GPS Antenna and Backup Camera (If Applicable)
Mount the new GPS antenna (usually on the dash or external). Bundle the excess cordage and make sure that the top cover of the stereo can snap on without interference. We put ours as forward as possible next to the main speaker behind the head unit.
Connect aftermarket camera harness if adding/upgrading. This wire harness is just a subassembly that plugs in-line with the existing Sync wire harness and if you don't have an aftermarket camera, no need to worry about this one.
Tuck all excess cables/wires/bundles into the cavity under the CD player and locate your Sync 3 screen/APIM assembly to the dash with the 2 pins.
Secure the assembly with the 7mm screws (4 of them) using your driver.
9. Reassemble and Reconnect
Snap your front bezel back in place after reconnecting the wire harness to the knob/button controls. Then install the upper QTY 2 x 7mm screws.
Reinstall the top cover after reconnecting the small wire connector near the CD slot.
Reconnect the battery.
10. Post-Install
Start the vehicle—the new Sync 3 should boot up.
If issues arise (e.g., with overseas kits), use the provided USB-OBD2 tool for remote support by contacting the Amazon seller. They will send you a link to TeamViewer to do a virtual desktop session and they'll get on FORScan and correct any APIM issues if any.
For custom builds: Use FORScan to program the APIM (or pay for a service like sync3programming.com).
This upgrade is very doable for newbies and it's fun to do even for experienced DIY'ers. The result is a modern infotainment system that is legit and really elevates a vehicle if you've had it for 10+ years like we have with our 2013 1.6L SE!
Here are Some Resources for Sync Parts and Info:
Sync 2 vs. Sync 3 Differences Guide (by Brian Lovelace from NaviUpgrade): https://naviupgrade.com/all/resources/sync-2-vs-sync-3-whats-the-difference/
Budget Upgrade Thread: https://www.fordescape.org/threads/updated-myford-touch-to-sync-3-upgrade-best-budget-option.120017/
Individual Parts (for Custom Builds)
Sync 3 APIM: GB5T-14G371-BFC / GB5T-14G371-CF / HJ5T-14G370-GNF – https://www.incarelectronic.com/products/genuine-oem-ford-sync3-apim-module-with-navigation-vin-programmed-sync-3-4-map-na223-14g370-14g371
8" Capacitive Touchscreen: GR3T-18B955-SB / GJ5T-14F239-xx – https://amzn.to/4oycspG
Screen-to-APIM Cable: GL1Z-10E929-AA – https://amzn.to/3WNBCok
USB Media Hub (CarPlay/Android Auto): HC3Z-19A387-B / HC3Z-19A387-H – https://amzn.to/4o78CmJ
USB Hub Power Wiring Adapter: WPT-1239 – https://amzn.to/49H1RnN
USB Hub Bezel/Bracket: GC3Z-19C149-A / GJ5Z-19C149-A – https://amzn.to/4oyAHnG
GPS Navigation Antenna: FAKRA C – https://amzn.to/4nP7DHo
Aftermarket Backup Camera Harness: https://amzn.to/4qSU7Fq
Forum Example (If you want to piece together your own kit): https://www.fordescape.org/posts/1175723/
APIM Programming Service (if you don't feel comfortable doing doing your own FORScan when pieceing together your own kit): https://sync3programming.com/ (by @DanMc85)
For the full visual walkthrough, watch the original video here: https://youtu.be/Vjpkf8bTGBU.
If you run into issues, forums like FordEscape.org are great resources. Happy upgrading! #Sync3 #FordEscape #DIYUpgrade



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