How to Replace the Passenger Side Motor Mount on Your 2013-2016 Ford Escape

If your Ford Escape's been clunking and vibrating while idling, driving, or even just running at all, chances are that motor mount's seen better days.

Ace didn't replace his engine mounts. Don't be like Ace....

We're talking the passenger-side one here for the 1.6L engine—part number CV6Z-6038-B if you're shopping ahead.

I've done this swap, and it's not rocket science, but it does require a bit of patience and the right amount of support from beneath for your engine since you'll be disconnecting it from the sub-frame temporarily. Don't be scared by that last part though- it's very doable- and pretty simple too.

This guide mirrors exactly what I walked through in my YouTube video—practical steps. Grab your tools, get your Escape on a flat surface and jack stands/chocs, and let's knock this out. Should take you a couple hours if you're steady.

Tools and Parts You'll Need

Before you dive in, you'll need:

• Floor jack

• A sturdy Wooden Block for the oil pan (very important for soft contact on oil pan)

• Jack stands and wheel chocks.

• 18mm Socket

• 15mm Socket

• T-25 Torx Driver

• 8mm Socket

• Flathead Driver

• Socket Wrench

• Socket Extension

• Torque wrench

• Open Ended Wrench

• New motor mount (CV6Z-6038-B).
  

Torque Specs to Replace Your 2013 Ford Escape Motor Mount—If you have a torque wrench, use it. You don't want to mess around or guess with something vibrating at high rpm like an engine.

• 66 ft-lbs for the lower 15mm bolts

• 59 ft-lbs for the 18mm nuts,

• 106 in-lbs (about 9 ft-lbs) for the star studs
  

Safety First: Park on Level Ground, and Use Wheel Chocs and Jack Stands

Park on level ground, chock those rear wheels, and get the front end up on jack stands with enough room to get the floor jack and wood block under the engine.

(NOTE: We didn't have ours on here, but if you need to take off your splash shield to see the bottom of the engine, now would be the time to do that too). Step 1: Slide that floor jack under the oil pan with a 2x4 or similar block on top and apply just a tiny bit of contact and leave it alone. This will take the weight off the mount and allow you to swap it out. (Just FYI,—Ford's manual calls for this to cradle the engine with the soft wood material in between anything. )Engine's still hooked to two other mounts, so it won't fully drop. The jack/block is there to keep it supported evenly.

Step 2: Remove the Wipers and Cowl Tray and Unseat Coolant Reservoir for better top down access:

• Remove each wiper with your 15mm Socket by placing one hand on the wiper arm and then loosening each 15mm nut on each wiper post. Rock the wiper side to side to get it off the splined wiper motor shaft and place them aside. (PRO TIP- Remember which wiper is for each side and which is above or below).

• Use the T-25 Torx bit to remove the 2 screws securing the brake fluid reservoir and let it dangle on the hose.

• Take your Flathead Screwdriver and pop off the little black clips holding the top and bottom cowl and tray together along the front and the top cowl will pop up and out.

• Use your 8mm Socket to remove the 4 screws securing the tray to the engine bay. Then lift the tray out.

• Lift the coolant reservoir up so that it unseats and gently move it out of the way so that you have better visual to the mount.

  
  

Step 3: Remove the Old Mount

• Spot the three 18mm nuts up top on the mount studs. Grab your 18mm Socket and loosen them, but don't fully remove them yet. Loose but still in place to keep things from shifting.
  

  

• Double-check your jack/wood block support after loosening; the engine might settle downwards slightly at this point. You shouldn't notice anything major if the engine is properly supported.

• Once you've verified the engine/jack are ok, pull those 18mm nuts and studs fully. The mount's hanging loose now on that passenger side.

• Drop down and hit the two 15mm bolts on the bottom with your socket. Unscrew, and the old mount should wiggle free.
  

  

Step 4: Replace Your 2013 Ford Escape Motor Mount

• Line up the fresh mount—make sure it's oriented right so that the 2 holes line up for the 2 x 15mm Bolts down low.

• Thread the three studs into the new mount by hand first but drive them in by the star shape on the top of the stud. You will probably need to take the nuts off the studs like we did and then install them second once the studs are fully seated. You can see the video between 5:40-6:10 here.

• Snug up those two 15mm lower bolts by hand to hold everything steady.

• Time to torque: Tighten the lower bolts to 66 ft-lbs first.

• Then the studs to 106 in-lbs—feels like hand-tight with a little extra, thanks to that bulge on the stud that stops it from going too deep.

• Finally, the nuts to 59 ft-lbs.

  
  

(PRO TIP: If needed, add a slight bit of height to the floor jack/ wood block to lift the engine just a tad so that the nuts can seat and everything clamp down properly.)

Step 5: Wrap It Up and Test

• The engine should now be fully supported.

• Ease the jack down slow, pull the block, and lower the vehicle.

• Reseat your Coolant Reservoir

• Reinstall your lower wiper tray and 8mm screws

• Reinstall your brake fluid reservoir and the T-25 Torx screws (2 of them)

• Reinstall the Upper Tray/Wiper Cowling and metal clips

• Reinstall wiper arms and 15mm nuts. Make sure the arms are straight and align with their previous positions (If you notice any misalignment issues after this with the wipers, you can follow this Windshield Wiper Arm Realignment procedure here).

• Fire it up—rev the engine in neutral and listen/feel for that smooth hum instead of the old rattle. If it's still shaking, might be time for the other mounts too.
  

Quick Tips and Heads-Up

• Be gentle when moving around the coolant lines near the coolant reservoir.

• Loosen 18mm partial at first- check your wood block/floor jack support, and then fully remove your nuts/studs.

• A flat work surface is going to be the way to go for jack stand and wheel choc safety.

• Check your other two mounts while you're at it. If you see leaking fluid or excessive tearing on the others, it may be time for those too
  

Your Escape should run smoother now that the new mount is in- If this guide helped or you hit a snag, drop a comment below. Drive safe.

• Original Video Tutorial: How to Replace Motor Mount 2013-2016 Ford Escape

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