2013–2019 Ford Escape Rear Bumper Cover Removal & Replacement: A Complete DIY Guide

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My rear bumper cover was a little banged up... so it was time for a new one. Good news- this is a straightforward DIY job you can do right in your driveway, no body shop needed. You don't even have to jack up the car if you have a short socket wrench. This works on the 2013 Escape and should all the way up to 2019.

Whether your cover is cracked, scuffed, or damaged, or you're swapping in a new or painted replacement, I'll walk you through every fastener and clip on the way off, then show you how to get the new one lined up and snapped back on. It's mostly 8mm and 7mm screws, a few push rivets, and some patience with the trim clips. Don't be scared by the size of the part- it's very doable with basic hand tools. TIME ESTIMATE FOR A NOVICE: 1 Hour

You can see this done on our YouTube channel here: https://youtu.be/WWhStv2B3-A

Tools and Parts You'll Need

• Replacement Bumper Cover (Feature Matching!)

  • Make sure any premium features align - parking sensor holes, foot sensor for auto lift gate, etc....

  • You can find cost effective deals at junk yards if you're game! We got ours for $45, INCLUDING the side extensions!
    

    

• Pry tool / trim removal tool (to pop the tail light cover caps and release the wheel arch trim- recommended to avoid scratches)

• Small flathead screwdriver (alternative for popping the tail light cover caps)

• 8mm socket (tail light screws, bumper cover screws under the tail lights, and the bumper cover extension screws)

• 7mm socket (QTY 5 wheel well liner screws per side)

• Short socket wrench / ratchet (lets you reach the wheel well screws without pulling the wheel)

• Impact driver (optional- speeds up removal and you have to be careful to go slow when reinstalling to not strip threaded inserts)

• Spare bumper clips / push rivets (optional - just in case one breaks)

Step-by-Step Removal Procedure

1. Pop Out the Tail Light Cover Caps
   

   

   1. Open your hatch.

   2. Use a flathead or a pry tool to pop out the plastic cover cap for each tail light. There are just two little snaps holding each cap- it's not hard to pop out.

   3. Put them somewhere safe!
      

2. Remove the Tail Light Assemblies

   1. Use an 8mm socket to remove the two screws on each tail light. These secure the tail light housings to the body.
      

      

   2. Apply pressure on the front and back of the tail light and slide it towards the rear.

   3. Disconnect the electrical connector and fully remove the tail light assembly.
      

      

   4. Do the same thing on the other side.

   5. PRO TIP: If you are having difficulty sliding the tail light assemblies out, you can try the "tape trick" that we show here in this video.
      

      https://youtu.be/CiEUcWWr5EQ

3.  Remove the Bumper Cover Screws Under the Tail Lights

   1. Remove the QTY 2 smaller 8mm screws underneath that secure the bumper cover to the body. Do it on the other side as well. This will loosen things up.
      

      

      
      

4. Remove the Wheel Well Liner Screws

   1. Take off the QTY 5 x 7mm screws securing the wheel well liner to the bumper cover and the liner trim. This disconnects the wheel well liner from the bumper cover as well as the plastic arch trim that goes over the wheel.
      

      

   2. Pro Tip: If you want to use an impact driver, you can remove the wheel for more access. I used a short socket wrench so I didn't have to remove the wheel.

   3. Keep those screws somewhere safe, then repeat on the other side.
      

5. Remove the Push Rivets Underneath
   

   

   1. Go underneath and remove the QTY 4 push rivets that secure the bumper cover to the metal brackets on the underside of the car.

      1. NOTE: My camera failed to record this step, but basically take a flat edge and wedge it in the gaps/slots under the depressed heads. This will elevate the center post slightly. Pull the center post away from the base (not not fully removed because you can break it!), and then grab the base and pry it from the hole it's in.

      2. Pull out the center post- the post contracts and becomes more narrow, and then you can remove it from the socket.
         

6. Release the Wheel Arch Trim and Extension Screw

   1. Use your pry tool to pop the arch trim away from the wheel well. This also releases the bumper cover extension when you go to pop it free.
      

      

      1. NOTE: Be mindful not to break any of the white tabs! If they break, you can purchase more here.

   2. Remove the other 7mm screw securing the bumper cover extension to the body.
      

7. Pop the Bumper Cover Extensions Free
   

   

   1. Apply pressure evenly across the bumper cover extension and pop it free.

   2. There's a series of tabs and hooks holding it in, plus a tooth/hook at the top that it hangs on.

   3. Go to the other side and pop that one free too.
      

8. Lift Off the Bumper Cover
   

   

   1. Everything should now be loose enough that if you walk to either side, you can kind of jiggle it out of place.

   2. Use two hands and support it well- then lift it out.

      1. NOTE: If your Escape has parking sensors, a hitch, or the hands-free liftgate, check for wiring connected to the bumper before pulling it all the way off.
         

Step-by-Step Installation Procedure

Installing the replacement is basically the removal in reverse- here's the order I used.

1. Hang the Cover on the Top Hangers

   1. Get everything lined up.

   2. Start by getting the hangers on the top in place.
      

2. Snap In the Bumper Cover Extensions

   1. Pop the tabs on the sides of the bumper cover extensions back onto the body.

   2. Push in until you hear ALL the snaps engage.

   3. Reinstall the 8mm screw securing each bumper cover extension to the body.
      

3. Reinstall the Wheel Arch Trim

   1. Make sure the white posts line up with the holes, then push in until flush.

   2. Listen for the snaps, and make sure the arch trim pieces are snug against the body.

   3. Repeat for the other side.
      

4. Reinstall the Bumper Cover Screws

   1. Reinstall the QTY 2 8mm screws for the bumper cover on each side (left and right, under the tail light openings).
      

5. Reinstall the Tail Lights

   1. Plug in the electrical first.

   2. Line up the slots and slide the tail light back in forward.

   3. NOTE: Be mindful of the rain gutter material that overhangs, so the water can properly drain.

   4. Reinstall the 8mm screws and the cover caps for each tail light.
      

6. Reinstall the Push Rivets

   1. Go underneath and stick the plastic rivet into the socket.

   2. Push the center post down- it expands and locks in place.
      

7. Tighten the Wheel Well Screws

   1. Tighten up the QTY 5 7mm screws in the wheel well.

   2. Repeat on the other side... and there is your new bumper cover!
      

8. Final Check

   1. Make sure the cover sits evenly with the body on both sides and the arch trim is snug.

   2. Turn on your tail lights and brake lights to confirm both sides work

   3. Verify function of any bumper electronics that were disconnected/reconnected

      1. Parking Sensors

      2. Foot Sensor for Auto Liftgate

      3. Trailer Lights

Fastener Summary

• Tail light cover caps: QTY 1 per tail light (pop out with flathead/pry tool)

• Tail light screws: QTY 2 per side, 8mm

• Bumper cover screws under the tail lights: QTY 2 per side, 8mm (smaller)

• Wheel well liner / arch trim screws: QTY 5 per side, 7mm

• Bumper cover extension screw (behind the arch trim): QTY 1 per side, 8mm

• Push rivets underneath: QTY 4 total

  
  

Practical Tips:

• Go slow on the arch trim: those clips and white tabs break easily. A plastic pry tool works better than a screwdriver here.

  • Have spare clips ready: grab a few spare bumper clips/push rivets before you start so a broken one doesn't stop the job.

• No need to pull the wheels: a short socket wrench reaches the 7mm wheel well screws with the wheel on. Pull the wheel only if you want to use an impact driver

• Two hands on the bumper cover: support it well when lifting off (LIFT UP AND AWAY!) and when hanging the new one on the top hangers

• Keep your hardware organized: there are a lot of small 7mm and 8mm screws plus caps and rivets- keep them somewhere safe (a magnetic tray helps)

• Listen for the snaps: on reinstall, every tab on the extensions and arch trim should click in

• Mind the rain gutter: when sliding the tail lights back in, keep that overhanging rain gutter material in place so water drains properly

• Match your replacement: make sure the new cover matches your options (sensor holes, tow package cutout, paint/finish)

FREE Ford Escape Maintenance Schedule

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